Author’s note: I wrote this several years ago but it feels very relevant now with the release of Thankful Harvest.
I hold the pot and wait to stir.
My heart is stirring before the flow starts. He is lying on the dirt. We are holding his legs, holding his head. Feathery strokes of fingers on neck, he has stopped struggling. Nature has whispered to his muscles to be still, to breathe deeply, to trust the end. His eye is turned towards the tree, a rope newly hanging from a limb. His eye is turned towards the weeping sky. His eye is still and softly yellow, the pupil a slit into another world, the future.
I wait to stir. I find myself whispering Thank you Thank you Thank you.
My partner’s knife is sharp and quick against his throat. The skin is thin under coarse fur the color of desert earth. His neck opens up crimson blood and white cartilage. I stir as the red collects in the pot I hold, shaking I stir, still mumbling thank you thank you thank you I stir as his lifeforce is pumped into my pot. I catch the blood to be made into food. We will usher it into casings and boil it until it is dark red almost black. We will crisp it in a cast iron pan with kale and garlic we grew in our garden, that we plucked out of the earth with these hands that now hold him down. We will (do) honor the life of this goat that is presently somewhere between goat and food: GOAT/FOOD
When is that line drawn? When he was born into the care of humans, as he lay dying at the hand of a kind man and his partner who whisper gratitude, as IT is butchered into small pieces that will fit into a Dutch oven? Maybe there is not a line, was never a line or an order: FOODGOAT
I stir. The blood separates and coagulates and I scoop out the solid bits as his muscles twitch their last. I set the deep red aside to help with the hauling of the body into the air, the skinning, the evisceration, the blessing of making this muscled gift an edible feast.
I am learning how to slaughter animals. It is a slow, delicate process for me. It is not pleasant pulling a knife against a living being’s throat and being with them as their heart beats them to death, as they take their last breath, as their legs stop kicking underneath our palms. I am choosing to feel the conflict between gratitude and sorrow. I want to see, know, feel how easily life can cease. I want to appreciate who my food has been as living breathing being to appreciate it even more on my fork. I have held the knife and taken the lives of chickens and turkeys. I am now apprenticing to the body of the goat.
Thank you, Prince.
We name our animals. We are not afraid to love what eventually we will eat. We rub goat bellies and laugh when the pigs nip at our muck boots. We snuggle our tiny bottle fed lambs in our laps and laugh wildly with gobbling turkeys. Why not love what is here in this moment, these creatures we nourish for months or years, these creatures who will nourish us during long winters and rainy springs? Raising these animals brings us joy and security. I savor the warmth of a freshly laid chicken egg in my palm on a cold winter morning and a pot of chicken soup on the stove. We slice bacon into the cast iron pan and thank Poppy for her corpulence. I feed little bits of lamb leg to our daughter and say “Thank you, Boots.” Our daughter witnesses our harvests and our gratitude. We know where our food comes from and what our food ate. This is important to us.
In high school I became a vegetarian. A guy handed me a pamphlet with blurry photos of pigs in tiny crates and chickens with feet meshed into wire cages. I was appalled. I ate peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and questioned taco stands about lard usage in their “vegetarian” burritos. I confounded my father by turning down perfectly barbecued steak and pan-fried salmon (“It’s fish, not meat,” he said). After college I argued with burger-eating friends about the fallacy of animal protein being essential and would wait until we were half way done with a meal before revealing the ground meat was texturized vegetable protein.
They stopped coming to dinner.
That didn’t stop me from feeling that eating the milky gray versions of beef from fast food joints or the pale proteins that came wrapped in plastic and Styrofoam from the grocery store was just not right. I just didn’t know what I could do about it other than avoid meat altogether.
Years later, after countless visits to homeopaths and nutritionists concerning my nagging fatigue, bloated gut, and chronic skin issues, I abandoned my diet of beans, rice, and wheat for meals that consisted primarily of organic vegetables and pasture-raised beef or free-range chicken. Eating that way helped my body heal. I read all I could about nutrition, cooking, and industrialized livestock production in this country. I hoped that what I was buying in the miniscule organic meat section of the store was actually free range, not just for what I saw as a more humane treatment of the animals, but for the added nutritional benefits of pastured meat. I talked with friends about my desire to learn how to raise and harvest animals myself (which was usually met with aghast faces at such a concept) but my opportunities were decidedly limited in the urban landscapes or on the boats where I lived for much of my twenties.
In my thirties I became friends with city homesteaders who slaughtered ducks in their backyards and urban agricultural activists who lived as much off the grid as the gridded city would allow. I bought whole cows from a local farmer on the edge of the county and organized dispersing the steaks and roasts between a couple dozen friends. I became an urban farmer and worked at a community college garden, dirt on my hands and a smile on my freckled face as I nestled kale seedlings into earth surrounded by skyscrapers.
Eventually I found my way to a rural community on an island in Puget Sound. I fell in love with a man who was an aspiring livestock farmer obsessed with holistically balancing the needs of animals, humans, and soil. We bought a house with land, had a baby, got hitched. We now graze our six sandy acres rotationally with goats, sheep, chickens, and turkeys. We hope to add more ruminants as the quality of organic matter in the soil improves, which of course happens when we have animals adding manure to the fields. It’s all about balance. We hope to provide more of these animals (FOOD) to our community as rejection of the industrialized food system grows in intensity.
I never would have guessed when I became a vegetarian at 16 that I would have the very same objections and desires as my current livestock-centric 40 year-old self: to have less of an impact on the earth (or more optimistically have a positive impact), to respect the lives (and deaths) of animals, to be healthy and happy.
We continue, blood on our hands, warm body against ours as we lift him off the ground. The skin slides along the torso over a stratum of fat and fascia. It comes off surprisingly easily with knife against fur skin almost muscle and bone. Tug out and down, slide hands in and separate the layers. So many layers. We tug and cut and pull until the body is naked and cooling.
A slow slice down the middle from pelvis to sternum is all that is needed for the jewels of innards to fall into my hands. I hold the blue-tinged intestines and slatey gray stomach and purple green gallbladder. As the body is emptied out of stomach and spleen, heart and lung, kidney and liver the warmth and beauty astounds me. The architecture and soft simple curves of complex systems supporting life rests in my hands. We are all soft inside and I see the emptiness of the now carcass (GOAT/CARCASS/FOOD) and am struck with the sudden knowing that this is me upside down in a tree. My body is a sharp blade away from a shell of meat and bone and fat. Hollow and mysterious and always seconds from no longer existing in the way that I live/write/eat/slaughter/survive presently.
Blood and fat and fur on my hands, I pour the pot of bright red liquid into a jar to carry it to the kitchen where it will be made into sausage with apples and onions from the land. I thank our goat for all he has given, all I have learned, how he will nourish our baby, our family, our community. I thank him for reminding me how fragile and dependent and connected we are as farmers and animals, as delicate and resilient creatures of this earth. I thank Prince for the opportunity to be witness to all that sustains us, for the opportunity to take responsibility for how I nourish my body.
This is death.
This is the reality of my manifested life.
This is a harvest of gratitude.